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These great mammals are farmed on the Prairies for meat that’s low in fat and that should be big on flavour. Since quality is sometimes diluted by popularity, the bison burger has been maligned of late; words like “cardboard” appeared in restaurant reviews.

But the River Café knows how to handle this finicky flesh: the succulent Olson's Bison Burger ($19) is served with Saskatoon berries, melted brie and bacon with a side of roasted potatoes, its version is a world apart from the tough stuff. Toppings aside, chef Scott Pohorelic, known for the strong relationships he has forged with suppliers, sources the dry-aged meat from a local ranch where the animals are pastured.

This story was originally published in the October 2009 issue of up! magazine as part of Grab & Go, a package of stories profiling the most delicious dishes eaten with your hands in Canada, the United States and the Caribbean. Check out other scrumptious spots in these WestJet destinations: